Juphal Helicopter
and
Dunai Inchworm
I
had never boarded a helicopter till now, though, I had flown in a plane several
times. And it was a chance to board it now.
The
9N-ADO helicopter of the Everest Air
landed on the ground shuffling the green grass half an hour after waiting at
the Ranjha airfield of Nepalgunj with all luggages. The guide
of our trekking team Mr. Ram Kumar Adhikary whispered to me- "Sir, that's
our chartered plane."
We
see from the terminal- our luggages are being dragged to the aircraft and
loaded into the plane, which continued for forty five minutes.
Why
do they take such a long time? It should not have taken so much time for such a
little luggage, I thought. I was too eager to board the helicopter.
"You
may go." The policeman at the gate permitted us after long waiting. We
headed to the helicopter straightly. I was taken aback when I entered inside.
What I had thought earlier was that a helicopter must be a small thing, but in
reality, it was not that small. I found the Russian helicopter bigger like Russia itself.
There
is enough space for 18/19 passengers in two sides. Our luggages were tied by a
net in the open space in the middle. They had arranged so much of luggage in a
short time; and that too with such tidiness. Earlier I had felt that we had
waited for too long. But when I saw the luggage arranged, I thought that I must
express my gratitude.
Whatsoever,
we went inside and took our seat. We tied our belts and waited for the
helicopter to take off. The aircraft made a start and took off straightly
upward with some turns. What a pleasure! The helicopter did not need to run at
the runway like the twin otters and there was nothing to worry whether it can
fly in a short runway. Neither was it our responsibility to fly the aircraft, and
there was nothing we could do in case of unexpected situation. However, useless
imaginations of danger always engaged me; I don't know why? It would not have
made any difference to the helicopter whatever I would think. It had to fly,
which it did and soared up in the sky above Nepalgunj.
Buildings started to become dwarfs, trees became small plants and the ground
below turned into a picture of a beautiful garden painted by a skillful painter.
This
kind of helicopter has a problem of its own kind. If we could sit in a position
facing the front of the plane, it would have been easier to take a view of the
scenes below from the window. But this helicopter was such that we had to sit
facing each other like in a Bhaktapur[1] bound
local mini bus in Kathmandu, with windows only
towards our back. And, we had no option other than to twist our heads to look
outside like a goat suffering from gid.[2]
Despite
the difficulty in turning our heads, it was a satisfaction that we could visit
a new place. I have got the opportunity to board a helicopter for the first
time. When we should have to visit our own country in our own expenses, I have
been on a visit in the expenses of a Japanese team. I don't have to spend my
money for my lodging and meals.
Everything
is auspicious; everything beneficial. When my own role is like that of an
independent parliamentarian at a time of forming a coalition government, there
is no need to remember minor things. It's alright even when I have to twist my
head. It's alright even when I have got a pain on the neck. At a time when all
those bearing the expenses of the travel are turning their heads backward, who
am I to comment on such twisting of heads? As all those Japanese heads are
twisted towards the window, why should I feel sad over twisting my single head?
Yes, I won't feel sad. Despite the pain on the throat, I would twist my head
and enjoy the air travel. Long live my one piece of twisted and free traveling
head!
In
fact, we can only find out the landscape of Nepal
when we fly in a plane. Cliffs, valleys, forests, rivers and rivulets sprouting
from narrow valleys everywhere. Human settlements are seen occasionally; all
the rest are cliffs and hills. Perhaps, because I come from the Terai[3],
we feel that we have a large stretches of Terai.
But when we board an airplane, the Terai
disappears so fast that it's only a line. Or like a underwear of some old
tribal people. Here our flight is towards the North. Therefore, even the sight
of the same line is rare. Scenes in our eyes are only the cliffs, valleys,
forests and rivers.
The
scenes are the same always. Wherever we turn our heads, there are the same
cliffs and hills. River networks like cobwebs and total loneliness without any
human settlements. Meanwhile, the airplane is moving forward following a river
and now we have entered into the sky over Dolpa
district.
After
forty five minutes of our taking off, we could see a small airfield. It was
difficult for people like us who come from the Terai even to believe the narrow ground as an airfield. A space
even insufficient for children to play football. Part of which could not be
seen because of the elevated central part. After all whatever ground we saw
from the aircraft, it was the very Juphal
airport; the only airport
of Dolpa
district. What a beautiful name – ‘Juphal’!
Like some foreign names of children given by urban and educated parents.
I
got a golden opportunity to touch down on the land of Dolpa on 6th August 1996
for the first time. I felt it glorious to have reached Dolpa. This visit has such significance that today the number of
zones I visited has reached 14 although I do not have visited all the 75
districts of Nepal.
I felt as if I would boast with someone “Do you know I am a man who has visited
all the fourteen zones of Nepal"
even when there is no relevancy of saying so. And I was lost for a long time
amidst this sensual pride.
We
see a small airfield, a small airport terminal and a small air safety post. I
am standing on the bosom of the largest district of Nepal amid all these small
things. We saw rocky land and onlookers standing around. People are very poor.
Everything is poor in all sectors such as health, education, employment, food
and shelter in the whole of Karnali
zone.[4]
The groups of those
onlookers come alive with hopes of getting a porter's job when the aircraft
lands. The activities of the people increase with the landing of a single
aircraft and some clever ones act as small contractors by employing many others
as porters. Fifty porters had been invited for our team. All those porters
began to unload goods and to make them as portable packs. They also had a
debate in their own language to express their dissatisfaction among them.
Someone convinced the others and they agreed to it and an hour later our
caravan of porters headed for Dunai,
the headquarters of Dolpa district.
I picked my rucksack
from among heaps of luggage, hanged my tumbler and wielded my camera around my
neck. We began to walk. Mr. Pitambar Gurung said – “The porter can carry your
rucksack for you." But I did not agree. I carried it myself and headed for
our destination, yukuri... yukuri.[5]
We saw a densely
populated village when we came down for a long time from the Juphal airport. Concrete and cement
plastered houses were there! Strange enough, all houses are made of concrete! I
am very much astounded. I had never imagined such concrete houses in such a
remote area. But I see the same thing down in the village. This was attractive
scenery which drew my attention. Unknowingly I moved swiftly and was soon in
the front part of the caravan. How was it possible here to build such houses? I
completed both the works of thinking and moving ahead swiftly together.
We reached the place.
Nowhere there were concrete houses. All those houses were with roofs in which
earth was used over wooden beams. After all my imagination was proved wrong!
Still there was something to be clear for me. I asked myself- how does water
drain from earth filled flat surface? Is it not that a roof should be somewhat
sloppy? Or is it so that it never rains here? I questioned myself and there was
nothing for me to create more questions than answers. We found that our path
was just beside these houses.
We reached there. What
we see there is filth everywhere and sadly a naked picture of poverty. Those
attractive houses a minute before stood as lively pictures of poverty before my
eyes. Naked children and tiny heaps of faeces everywhere on the path. We moved
forward in utter dislike of the scene. A large band of children would gather to
look at us everywhere. Japanese visitors began to take snaps of these lively
pictures of poverty with their cameras.
Children as seen on the way Photo: KN Dhakal
In this way, we reached Dunai after crossing a wooden bridge via
Dakebara, Kalagaunda and Rupgad villages. Arrangements had been
made for us to stay at hotel Blue Sheep, a tourist standard hotel. Tourist
standard for its cleanliness. Though we stayed there we didn't sleep at hotel
rooms. We put our tents at the premises of the hotel. In a trekking team, there
used to be separate staffs for hooking tents and their designation was 'Sherpa', whatever caste do they come
from. One of the Sherpas was Mr. Adhikary[6]
who put my tent where our guide Mr. Ram Kumar Adhikary and I would sleep. Six
separate tents were hooked for six Japanese. Very big tents were hooked for all
the rest of porters, Sardar[7],
Nepalese and Japanese cooks where everyone will be crammed like fishes.
Okhal: an indigenous grinding
mill Photo: KN Dhakal
I
came out to stroll in the town after keeping my baggage in my tent. A small
stretch of market, some shops, some hotels and presence of some government
offices. After all the district headquarters was only this much. There is the 'Thuli Bheri' river that sidelines the
bazaar from its Eastern side, and those unruly tides in the river during rainy
season. People are washing clothes and utensils. The river is just next to the
house. Isn't the district headquarters threatened by the river? "Yes, of
course, but there is no way out" says owner of the Blue Sheep hotel. Yes,
even the locals had seen the threat as I did, but what actually can be done?
Who would dare to fight the river? Things are alright as they are. It will
someday flood, a few houses will be swept away and a few people would be killed
and will make news and will soon be forgotten. This will repeat often. After
all, there is nothing I can do.
I
washed my feet where people were washing utensils. I
washed my shocks, washed my face and
returned to the hotel refreshed. It is evening already. Blue sheep is very
pleased to have many guests. I cooled myself for a while after drinking a Coca
cola which cost NRs. 30. Just as I
was about to go to bed after my dinner at the hotel, Mr. Terayuki Oiwa came to
my tent suddenly. He was smiling. I invited him into my tent – "Oiwasan[8], you
are welcome to my tent." He had a
Japanese book in his hand. Turning out some pages of the book, he said
"Mr. Dhakal, although it's your country and you might have more
information about your country as compared to me. But I have come to inform you
that there are many inchworms in Dunai.
Be careful as you sleep. This book mentions the same thing." He said in
Japanese and pointed out with his finger the portion on the book. I was
astonished. They care such small things. How laborious is the writer of the
book, who did not leave untouched anything? I was awe struck until I heard him
say "I'm leaving for my tent." I bid him goodnight saying -
"Thanks for the information."
Soon our guide Ram Kumar
arrived at my tent. I told him about the information I got from Mr. Oiwa.
"Well, nothing to worry" he said and as we were about to sleep,
suddenly we saw an inchworm inside our tent. Both of us killed the insect
together. It was sure to spoil our sleep. Mr. Adhikary and myself rose turn by
turn to see with torchlight whether we can find other inchworms. We looked for
it for a long time. But except for the inchworm that came to prove the Japanese
writer right, we never saw another and we slept with all the holes on the tent
shut very tightly.
And, it was today when I
board a helicopter for the first time in my life. I also touched the land
within Karnali Zone. And it was today
when the number of districts I visited increased by one. And even killed an
inchworm with my hand without the bone of Dadhichi[9] and
slept in a tent for the first time in front of a hotel. After all these are the
records we can keep. And today was a day when I was able to keep such a number
of records for me.
***
[1]. An ancient city 15 KM away from Kathmandu .
[2]. A disease in which a goat turns its head
frequently.
[3]. Lowland
in the southern part of Nepal
[4]. A Himalayan zone of Nepal which comprises
Dolpa, Humla, Mugu, Jumla and Kalikot districts
[5]. Slowly
- slowly in Japanese.
[6]. A
clan of high caste Brahmin.
[7]. Chief
of the trekking crew.
[8]. Mr.
Oiwa. 'San' is added after a person's surname to show respect in
Japanese culture.
Japanese culture.
[9]. A
sage in Hindu mythology who has given his ribs to kill a devil named Brittasur.
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